Wednesday 31 July 2013

All at Johannesburg ... next stop Heathrow.

Update: All at Johannesburg waiting to board flight for home - and doing some final souvenir shopping.

Outposts' Michael Kingscote will be at Heathrow to meet the group on their return.

Defense of Rorke's Drift and a very special community enterprise

Magnus takes up the story of the Cadets last day in South Africa ... 

It was the final day, both for us and those involved in the battles of Isandlwana (& Rorke's Drift). 

Rorke’s Drift is the location in Natal that the British Army were using as a permanent base and so the first to be attacked after the defeat at Isadlwana. Reggie immediately transported us back to the night of January 1879 and around us buildings that were since erected dissolved leaving only the buildings defended by the British and the history in their foundations. 

Even the two buildings on which we focused showed us the true nature of South Africa. In the past it has been inhabited by Dutch and Germans, both of whom formed amicable relations with the Zulu tribes before the site was commandeered by the British. This is typical throughout what we have seen of the country as not one but many differing peoples have shaped its history. 

Rorke's Drift today

During the next hour or so we followed Reggie around the site as battle cries filled the air and the ground became soaked with blood while the 110 remaining, isolated soldiers fought for their lives. He described the noise and fever of battle as each room fell to the advancing Zulus. 

Rorke's Drift - the battle scene


Eleven Victoria Crosses were won that night while only a handful of British deaths and we heard each story. The battle was won and we were awestruck with the events. The ramifications of the battle stretched further still, it strengthened the resolve of the British invasion of Zululand, but more significantly, the different groups in the local community have come together to commemorate their shared past.
Memorial at Rorke's Drift
Memorial at Isandlwana - scene of great Zulu victory


A very special community enterprise ... and a chance to pick up some shopping and souvenirs!

The Cadets visited a small farm where the owners had set up a business which allows many local men and especially Zulu women the chance to earn an income making bead and wire crafts: necklaces, bowls etc. 

"We were amazed by the many different designs which brought traditional skills and patterns to the modern market with the products being shipped as far as China and the USA.

The enterprise allows families to work when they can, balancing production with other commitments within the community. The owners have worked hard, the business taking time and money to set up, and the workers sometimes vanish for weeks at a time, but their work has greatly benefitted the area." - Magnus

In contrast the Cadets then visited the "sprawling urban scene" of Dundee, where the shops ranged from Chinese markets to salons to a Spar, where everything from chocolate to knives could be bought provided you are able to cross the hectic highways. 

Final campfire and 'braai' as the Cadets bid 'Hamba Kahle' to Africa!

Back at camp the Cadets enjoyed a final evening feasting on 'braai' around the campfire before a round of of fireball hockey. 

Duke of Westminster Award Expedition - New Report Travel to Elandsheim, history talk and fireball hockey - Sunday 28th
After finishing up our trip on the Pongola river, we began our journey to Elandsheim. Five hours later, having climbed several feet in to the mountainous landscapes we arrived to find our accomodation was even better than the last. Two storey cabins were definitely not expected; with the beautiful scenery and serenity of the site, it really is a great place to finish up our final days in South Africa. 
We began our time here with a good old English cup of tea from Reggie and a  lesson on the history of South Africa, providing us with the introductory knowledge to assist our siteseeing tomorrow.
After filling ourselves up on a lovely meal, we were ready for the famous expedition game of fireball hockey. Splitting ourselves in to teams, and a quick on the spot risk assessment from Reggie we began our game. 
It is extremely ironic that while we are not allowed to snorkel, a hockey ball soaked in fuel seems to be acceptable! Guess health and safety doesn’t cover Reggie’s hobbies! 
After a very short, but very excitable game we ended for the evening, looking forward to the days ahead.


"The eventful game concluded (once the fires were extinguished) a brilliant final day to what has been an incredible and thought-provoking trip." - Magnus  



Tuesday 30 July 2013

Zulu Battlefields of Isandlwana and trekking the Fugitive's Trail to the Buffalo River

“Seeing a family of giraffes and zebras across the view on the way back to camp finished the day off perfectly ... Another amazing day of indescribable moments and views. Although we only have one more day in this amazing country, there’s always something new and surprising to see:  TIA (This Is Africa)! “ - Gemma 

Elandsheim, history talk and fireball hockey

After an exciting time on the Pongola River the Cadets travelled to Elandsheim for the last phase of their expedition before heading for home.

“Our  accomodation was even better than the last. Two storey cabins were definitely not expected; with the beautiful scenery and serenity of the site, it really is a great place to finish up our final days in South Africa.” – Cadet 

Battlefields Phase accommodation near Isandlwana & Rorke's Drift
Expeditioners' accommodation for Battlefields Phase at Elandsheim a Lutheran Mission
Battlefields Phase accommodation near Isandlwana & Rorke's Drift
Accommodation lodges at Elandsheim with campfire/Boma area in background
The Cadets settled in with a ‘good old English cup of tea’ from their inimitable guide, Reggie, who then gave the Cadets a history of South Africa, providing them with the introductory knowledge needed to appreciate the battlefield tours. 

A delicious meal was followed by the ‘in-famous and don’t tell your parents’ game of fireball hockey – played in the dark of course for maximum effect and excitement!  Cadets were split into teams, a brief risk assessment was given by Reggie ... then battle commenced!

Fireball hockey!
Isandlwana Battlefield and trekking the Fugitive's Trail to the Buffalo River 

After the Cadets enjoyed “the longest lie-in of the trip! A half eight breakfast!” it was off with Reggie to Isandlwana.
  
Gemma reports: "Reggie led us up half way on Isandlwana, to the white rocks which represented deaths and along the way he showed the different stages of the battle between the British and Zulu armies. The British had issued an ultimatum demanding the Zulu king to disband his army or the British would start a war. 
The war began on the 22nd January 1879 and within 24 hours the British were defeated. Reggie described the main events and the strategies of both armies and how they had completely different methods of defence and attack. 

Zulu War Battlefields of Isandlwana
The 'Sphynx' of Isandlwana

As we listened, the battle came alive on the ground below. Play by play the men fought their timeless war and the significance of each motion became apparent. As we learnt more, it also dawned on us that this battle affected the country’s future as well as the British Empire as a whole." - Gemma

The Cadets climbed up the rest of the Sphynx - see above. The walk was a steady climb, ending with a small scramble to the top where the views were stunning. The descent down 'The Chimney' was challenging even for those not scared of heights - but they all made it! 

Trekking the Fugitive's Trail - the Cadets followed in the footsteps of the retreating Lts. Melvill and Coghill who died in their attempt to save the Queen’s colour as they fled the Fugitive's Trail towards the Buffalo River. 

Crossing the Buffalo River, KwaZulu-Natal
Cadets crossing the Buffalo River - and cooling off in the low water
After lunch they made the final steep climb up to the monument and graves of Melvill and Coghill. 

Pongola River mini-expedition and R & R ... photos just in!

Photos just in from the Cadets Pongola River* phase of their expedition ...  

Canoe safari on Pongola River, KwaZulu-Natal

Canoe safari on Pongola River, KwaZulu-Natal

Canoe safari on Pongola River, KwaZulu-Natal

Canoe safari on Pongola River, KwaZulu-Natal
  
Canoe safari on Pongola River, KwaZulu-Natal

Canoe safari on Pongola River, KwaZulu-Natal

R & R on Canoe safari, Pongola River, KwaZulu-Natal

R & R on Canoe safari, Pongola River, KwaZulu-Natal

*The Pongola River  (or Phongolo River) descends steeply from its headwaters in the Mpumalanga Provence of South Africa exiting the Lebombo Mountain range in KwaZulu-Natal below Lake Jozini. Here the river encounters the flat Mozambique coastal plain and seems to stretch out and put up its feet as it meanders casually between the 90 odd pans that make up the Pongola Floodplain - South Africa’s largest and most diverse freshwater ecosystem and a nature lovers paradise. 


Monday 29 July 2013

Pongola River Phase: Kayaking over the BIG drop, setting up camp at the riverside … and fishing for Tiger Fish!

When the cadets arrived at the Pongola River they found eight two-man canoes waiting for them on the Riverbank. They paired up and took to the water – having to paddle upstream towards the towering Jozini dam – which proved very challenging!

Pongola River Camp, KwaZulu-Natal
All ready? Let's go!
Several capsizes later, the going was much easier until the cadets reached ‘The Big Drop’ …

Magnus takes up the story:

“We came upon the death-defying, 3ft drop which formed the weir we needed to pass. Shrill, high-pitched screams rang out in the gorge as Jared went over the edge (the rest of us took it in our stride) but once we had passed that mountainous challenge the following rapids and currents caused little hesitation.

Pongola River Camp, KwaZulu-Natal
The 'BIG' Drop! The Weir on the Pongola River
We arrived in our own little camp, situated in roughly the centre of nowhere, and promptly set about bathing and mud fighting, all the while on the lookout for hungry crocs!

As the darkness closed in we cast rods out into the river … no Tiger Fish we caught but we did reel in a small sharp-toothed catfish. Too small to eat but still an achievement!” - Magnus

As the Cadets sat around the campfire in the evening they enjoyed listening to the night sounds of Africa and of the insects that were filling the air.

Pongola River Camp, KwaZulu-Natal
Beautiful, idyllic African River: The Pongola 
Pongola River Camp, KwaZulu-Natal
Pongola River Camp
Pongola River Camp, KwaZulu-Natal
Keeping warm ... and tea!
Pongola River Camp, KwaZulu-Natal
Sunset over Pongola River viewed from camp

Final days at Kosi Bay ... photos!

Coastal ecology, community project work and home visits ...

Kosi Bay, KwaZulu-Natal, Community Project & Home visits
School Children and teachers show their appreciation for the Cadets help.

Magnus reports on last day and very special 'farewell': 

"After bidding a final farewell to Amangwane we visited the school to handover the finished classroom. We assembled in the hall and were presented with the entire school crammed into the room. What happened next will stay in our minds forever. 
The children sang and danced filling the small hall with an energy which showed the spirit of the community. The Grade R’s presented their songs and dances in both languages, poems and rhymes in English were read by the Grade 3’s. Then, to a cascade of claps and shouts, in came two lines of dancers in a bright orange get-ups performing traditional songs and dances. 
Again the noise and energy from the chants and stamps reverberated around the room and left us all in awe. After more songs and dances from the students we met the Grade R’s to whom the revamped room was being left and departed to a chorus of  'Sala gachle’."

 Kosi Bay, KwaZulu-Natal, Community Project & Home visits
Cadets vs School Girls at Netball
Kosi Bay, KwaZulu-Natal, Community Project & Home visits
Looking spic 'n span - Cadets with school children at Community Project
Kosi Bay, KwaZulu-Natal, Community Project & Home visits
Cadets on a home visit
Kosi Bay, KwaZulu-Natal, Community Project & Home visits
Home visit
Kosi Bay, KwaZulu-Natal, Community Project & Home visits
Community Project Work
Kosi Bay, KwaZulu-Natal, Community Project & Home visits
Community Project Work 
Kosi Bay, KwaZulu-Natal, Community Project & Home visits
One of the classrooms - BEFORE Photo 
Kosi Bay, KwaZulu-Natal, Community Project & Home visits
... and AFTER!
Kosi Bay, KwaZulu-Natal, Community Project & Home visits
Cadets vs School Boys at Football
Kosi Bay, KwaZulu-Natal, Community Project & Home visits
Cadets at Kosi Bay overlooking Indian Ocean

Friday 26 July 2013

Kosi Bay coastal ecology, beautiful sunrise over Indian Ocean and spear fishing in ancient fish traps

Sunrise over Kosi Bay with ancient fish traps visible
“Last night Katy (our expedition leader) made a big mistake… She told us she and Tommy (our main guide) were going to see the sunrise at the beach this morning. To her disappointment all of us were up at 5.45 to join them so her peaceful morning on the beach was ruined!

Tommy power-walked us to the coast 3.5km from camp – (up and over some of the highest sand dunes in South Africa) which we made in under half an hour. The sun was beginning to peer through the clouds on the horizon. We all braved an early morning dip which turned out to be amazing and well worth it.

The quiet paradise at the mouth of the estuary meant we all thought we were in some kind of movie” - Susan

In the afternoon, Tommy demonstrated how strong and deceptive the currents leading out of the estuary could be so the Cadets paddled in the calmer waters searching out many organisms from blue bottle jelly fish to sea urchins.

Then it was time to learn all about the ancient fish traps, which have been tended and used by generations of the same families for nearly 1,000 years. The Cadets had a go at spear fishing – Jared was successful!

Wading out to the ancient fish traps at Kosi Bay
Fish! In the ancient fish traps at Kosi Bay
Lunch!
Preparing fish at the water's edge
Palm Trees and huge sand dunes at Kosi Bay
Early morning paddle at Kosi Bay - chilly until the sun comes up
Pristine beach where turtles nest in November and where Humpbacked whales can be seen on the distant horizon  breaching in July & August.
A profusion of marine life 
In the evening the Cadets were treated to a ‘braai’ (African BBQ) by Tommy as it’s his last night with the Cadets before they head for the Pongola River and the next exciting phase of their expedition.

Teaching, Painting, Home Visits, Football and Netball matches …

Project: Everyone worked so hard on the project to get the job finished and it looked great. All the Cadets finished off cleaning the floors and painting the animals inside to add their personal touch.


Community Project Work at School in Kosi Bay, KwaZulu-Natal
Halfway there! Smiley faces & happy T-shirts.
Teaching: “Me, Jen and Kayleigh had to go a bit earlier than the others in order to meet the teachers. The first lesson I was going to teach was physics and, in specific electricity and circuits. I didn’t realise how hard teaching, especially of physics, is. (Hat’s off to Julian you legendary physics teacher!). 

Sometimes the young children would look at me blankly mainly because I spoke too quickly for them as English was probably their 2nd or 3rd language. It felt amazing though when they actually got the questions I set them right and was probably one of the most satisfying feelings that I have ever had.

It made me realise how lucky I am. Most of the children here are roughly 4-5 years behind us in their educational knowledge and when it came to IT even the teachers were asking for our assistance mainly because at home we use technology on a 24/7 basis.” - Jordan


“I was rather nervous when we went to the school, however after we saw them sing in the morning and disperse into their classrooms I was very emotional but also my nerves had faded.

When I first walked into the (technology) classroom there were so many eyes just looking right at me, however when I was introduced I soon started to teach and got into the flow.

When the kids started to understand me it felt like such an achievement! Seeing them smile and laugh during the lesson was also a tremendous feeling and satisfying. I can honestly say today has been touching to the heart. - Will


Home Visit: “After school we went back to the homestead home of a girl age 13. We got speaking to her uncle and it was privilege to be in their company and to hear more about the lifestyle of the people that live in Kosi Bay and the daily challenges they come across which we take for granted such as food and fresh water.

It puts your whole life in perspective when you see someone who is as happy or even happier than you with the simplest way of living.” - Jordan


England vs South Africa at Football & Netball 

After packing away all the equipment, putting on their war paint it was England vs South Africa at football and netball.

“After stretching out (we were) ready to play the amazing South African school team! With blood, sweat and tears an hour passed, a goal here and a goal there, bare foot running, sprinting, panting! In the end England reigned victorious with a 3-1 win! The girls also won at netball 7-4!” – Will P

Taste Test - Elephant's Pudding - Walking Trails - Kosi Bay
It's an acquired taste! Cadets taste the bitter 'Elephant Pudding' 
Coastal Ecology at Kosi Bay, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
Coastal Ecology & Walking Trails 

Wednesday 24 July 2013

Cadets working hard on community project. Home visits proving educational and very emotional!

Fee Bellamy reports following contact with expedition leader Katy:

Still going very well at Kosi. They've nearly finished the painting and then the Cadets will be replacing some of the windows. The teaching carries on in rotation with home visits. All going well. 



Kosi Bay - Homestead visits ... Jared, Will & Susan share their thoughts!

On everyday life …

“During my time at school I did an exchange project with a school in Poland, we visited their school for a week. That was a very moving experience but visiting this homestead in South Africa has blown that out of the water! During our time here we have learnt how the (local people) live, about their religion, the country and its history. I’ve never been a history or religious type of person but seeing stuff like this really interests me!

It was an honour to be welcomed into someone’s community, where they work, sleep, eat and so on. They explained to us how their everyday life works and how they do their jobs. To us they sounded like hard challenges. But to the Tongan they are a walk in the park! They wouldn’t think twice about life being hard. You compare it to the English way of life and think to yourself how different they are to us.”  -  Jared


On food and drink …

“It was very interesting how quickly palm wine is prepared, as it only takes two-ish days! The peanut and butternut leaf dish was actually rather tasty, it had a dull colour of murky green. However don’t let its looks deceive you.

I think the best face was shown by Katie when she saw it, it was a questioning face that she displayed, however even she was pleasantly surprised.

The monkey apple jam was rather bitter, this was mainly owing to the fact that no sugar had yet been added to the jam. Overall it was a very pleasant experience and I wish I could see and taste the jam when it’s finished. Might just have to come back for it!" - Will



On life in a traditional hut … and shock at women being treated as second-class citizens.

"At the homestead I was pleased to see a traditional hut building alongside the more modern house. It made the novel ‘Things fall apart’ by Chinua Achebe come to life in the sense that I finally tasted palm wine which is mentioned endlessly in the book.

The warm climate (to us at least - the locals were walking around in jumpers and coats!) makes the palm wine ferment very quickly and this is what gives it such a kick.

Coming from a school that is all about empowering women it was very different being considered a second class citizen where women were served a separate, smaller jar of the wine (not to mention being made to sit on the floor rather than the benches as the latter is for the men). Overall I enjoyed the cultural experience." -  Susan