Kosi Bay coastal ecology, beautiful sunrise over Indian Ocean and spear fishing in ancient fish traps

Sunrise over Kosi Bay with ancient fish traps visible

“Last night Katy (our expedition leader) made a big mistake… She told us she and Tommy (our main guide) were going to see the sunrise at the beach this morning. To her disappointment all of us were up at 5.45 to join them so her peaceful morning on the beach was ruined!

Tommy power-walked us to the coast 3.5km from camp – (up and over some of the highest sand dunes in South Africa) which we made in under half an hour. The sun was beginning to peer through the clouds on the horizon. We all braved an early morning dip which turned out to be amazing and well worth it.

The quiet paradise at the mouth of the estuary meant we all thought we were in some kind of movie” - Susan

In the afternoon, Tommy demonstrated how strong and deceptive the currents leading out of the estuary could be so the Cadets paddled in the calmer waters searching out many organisms from blue bottle jelly fish to sea urchins.

Then it was time to learn all about the ancient fish traps, which have been tended and used by generations of the same families for nearly 1,000 years. The Cadets had a go at spear fishing – Jared was successful!

Wading out to the ancient fish traps at Kosi Bay

Fish! In the ancient fish traps at Kosi Bay

Lunch!

Preparing fish at the water's edge

Palm Trees and huge sand dunes at Kosi Bay

Early morning paddle at Kosi Bay - chilly until the sun comes up

Pristine beach where turtles nest in November and where Humpbacked whales can be seen on the distant horizon  breaching in July & August.

A profusion of marine life 

In the evening the Cadets were treated to a ‘braai’ (African BBQ) by Tommy as it’s his last night with the Cadets before they head for the Pongola River and the next exciting phase of their expedition.

Teaching, Painting, Home Visits, Football and Netball matches …

Project: Everyone worked so hard on the project to get the job finished and it looked great. All the Cadets finished off cleaning the floors and painting the animals inside to add their personal touch.

Halfway there! Smiley faces & happy T-shirts.

Teaching: “Me, Jen and Kayleigh had to go a bit earlier than the others in order to meet the teachers. The first lesson I was going to teach was physics and, in specific electricity and circuits. I didn’t realise how hard teaching, especially of physics, is. (Hat’s off to Julian you legendary physics teacher!). 

Sometimes the young children would look at me blankly mainly because I spoke too quickly for them as English was probably their 2nd or 3rd language. It felt amazing though when they actually got the questions I set them right and was probably one of the most satisfying feelings that I have ever had.

It made me realise how lucky I am. Most of the children here are roughly 4-5 years behind us in their educational knowledge and when it came to IT even the teachers were asking for our assistance mainly because at home we use technology on a 24/7 basis.” - Jordan

“I was rather nervous when we went to the school, however after we saw them sing in the morning and disperse into their classrooms I was very emotional but also my nerves had faded.

When I first walked into the (technology) classroom there were so many eyes just looking right at me, however when I was introduced I soon started to teach and got into the flow.

When the kids started to understand me it felt like such an achievement! Seeing them smile and laugh during the lesson was also a tremendous feeling and satisfying. I can honestly say today has been touching to the heart. - Will

Home Visit: “After school we went back to the homestead home of a girl age 13. We got speaking to her uncle and it was privilege to be in their company and to hear more about the lifestyle of the people that live in Kosi Bay and the daily challenges they come across which we take for granted such as food and fresh water.

It puts your whole life in perspective when you see someone who is as happy or even happier than you with the simplest way of living.” - Jordan

England vs South Africa at Football & Netball 

After packing away all the equipment, putting on their war paint it was England vs South Africa at football and netball.

“After stretching out (we were) ready to play the amazing South African school team! With blood, sweat and tears an hour passed, a goal here and a goal there, bare foot running, sprinting, panting! In the end England reigned victorious with a 3-1 win! The girls also won at netball 7-4!” – Will P

It's an acquired taste! Cadets taste the bitter 'Elephant Pudding' 

Coastal Ecology & Walking Trails 

Cadets working hard on community project. Home visits proving educational and very emotional!

Fee Bellamy reports following contact with expedition leader Katy:

Still going very well at Kosi. They've nearly finished the painting and then the Cadets will be replacing some of the windows. The teaching carries on in rotation with home visits. All going well. 

Kosi Bay - Homestead visits ... Jared, Will & Susan share their thoughts!

On everyday life …

“During my time at school I did an exchange project with a school in Poland, we visited their school for a week. That was a very moving experience but visiting this homestead in South Africa has blown that out of the water! During our time here we have learnt how the (local people) live, about their religion, the country and its history. I’ve never been a history or religious type of person but seeing stuff like this really interests me!

It was an honour to be welcomed into someone’s community, where they work, sleep, eat and so on. They explained to us how their everyday life works and how they do their jobs. To us they sounded like hard challenges. But to the Tongan they are a walk in the park! They wouldn’t think twice about life being hard. You compare it to the English way of life and think to yourself how different they are to us.”  -  Jared

On food and drink …

“It was very interesting how quickly palm wine is prepared, as it only takes two-ish days! The peanut and butternut leaf dish was actually rather tasty, it had a dull colour of murky green. However don’t let its looks deceive you.

I think the best face was shown by Katie when she saw it, it was a questioning face that she displayed, however even she was pleasantly surprised.

The monkey apple jam was rather bitter, this was mainly owing to the fact that no sugar had yet been added to the jam. Overall it was a very pleasant experience and I wish I could see and taste the jam when it’s finished. Might just have to come back for it!" - Will

On life in a traditional hut … and shock at women being treated as second-class citizens.

"At the homestead I was pleased to see a traditional hut building alongside the more modern house. It made the novel ‘Things fall apart’ by Chinua Achebe come to life in the sense that I finally tasted palm wine which is mentioned endlessly in the book.

The warm climate (to us at least - the locals were walking around in jumpers and coats!) makes the palm wine ferment very quickly and this is what gives it such a kick.

Coming from a school that is all about empowering women it was very different being considered a second class citizen where women were served a separate, smaller jar of the wine (not to mention being made to sit on the floor rather than the benches as the latter is for the men). Overall I enjoyed the cultural experience." -  Susan

Black Rhino tracked on walking trails. Teaching, painting and decorating has begun on Community Schools Project. Home visit undertaken by Cadets.

Michael Kingscote reports with further details: 

The walking trails were led by Pete and Zee the young man who Pete is mentoring. The cadets walked over 25 kms, through the bush. The weather was rainy and windy but the Cadets put their EAC (Environmental Awareness Course) learning into practice when they tracked the Black Rhino. They saw very fresh tracks, spoor, and where the rhino had rubbed ticks off his hide on a rock. One cadet remarked that "the tracking process, was more exciting than actually seeing the Rhino!"

Black Rhino was here!

Expedition leader Katy with guide on Bush Walk

Impala spotted on bush walk

Typical Bush with Termite Mound

Jordan reports:

“The walk this morning was another early start, especially challenging after doing two nights of watch! We were still hopeful to see at least one of the big five as this was our last time on foot in their territory.

We spotting a few elegant impala and a less good looking warthog! Warthogs remind me of a remote control car with the way their tails stick up in the air.

We came across some buffalo dung and black rhino tracks. It was decided we would follow the tracks as we were fairly close to the rhino after seeing how fresh the rhino midden was. It was a tense feeling which gave you butterflies in your stomach, the fact that we might actually see a black rhino in the wild which is such a rarity.

There was a loud cracking of branches which came from the direction that we had just come from which made us all freeze and turn. We followed the tracks until we circled round and then went and headed in the direction of the cracking wood sound in hope and anticipation that we might find a black rhino or an elephant.

On the way there were more and more rhino midden and some fresh rhino urine which elevated the excitement levels as we felt so close to our prize. We headed into some thick thicket but after about an hour decided to come back out as it was now likely the rhino had moved on.”
Jordan summarised: 

“Even though we didn’t get to see our end prize it did get me thinking how lucky I was even to be able to track a wild black rhino on foot and how amazing these walks had been over the past three days. This was not only because of the area and professionals that we were with but also how being in touch and respectful of nature, cleared your mind and allowed you to be at peace and assess the things you plan to do or are currently doing in your life.”

Yesterday (Sunday) the work started at the school. 

They have prepared some classrooms for painting and yesterday afternoon went to the village for a home visit. There they saw how the African students lived, drank palm wine, ate a dish of peanut and butternut squash and learned how to make palm wine. This was their first indoctrination into local customs.

Today, three of the Cadets are teaching maths, English and natural science. They are a little apprehensive, but well prepared. The other Cadets will be decorating. This phase will continue until Thursday. 

Kosi Bay, Indian Ocean & walking trails tracking black rhino

Cadets reached Kosi Bay* on the Indian Ocean and Mozambique border yesterday, for the coastal ecology phase of their expedition. 

This is also where they will be based for their community project and voluntary work.

The weather finally improved as the Cadets carried out an orientation of the area - it looked wonderful - a truly unique and most beautiful part of South Africa. Right on the Indian Ocean this special ecological area has marshes, swamp forests, mangroves, coastal dunes, sandy beaches, lakes, streams, and amazing wildlife.

Katie - expedition leader - also reported to Fee Bellamy that: "Walking Trails in the morning went well - these are very exciting and allow the Cadets to venture into the Bush and explore parts that are inaccessible by vehicle. The Cadets had the privilege of tracking the rare black rhino for several hours but didn't quite see it although Peter, their guide, believed that they had come pretty close (within 200m) at one point!

The Cadets camp: Accommodation is in rustic reed chalets, which are basic but comfortable. There's a Lapa area where everyone meets at the end of an exciting day to share stories around the campfire. 



*Kosi Bay: A nature Reserve consists of four lakes and a series of inter-connecting channels which drain via a sandy estuary into the Indian Ocean. It is home to hippopotamus, crocodile and a wide variety of birds (250 species) among them the fish eagle and palm nut vulture, white backed heron, night heron, purple and reed kingfisher. Kosi Bay is a tropical paradise of crystal-clear blue water and marshland, raffia, wild date and palm, mangrove swamp and sycamore fig forest. There are traditional fishing traps - some handed down from generation to generation for nearly 1,000 years.The largest mammal found here is the humpback whale which can sometimes be seen from the beach breaching on the distant horizon during July/August. Let's hope the Cadets are lucky and get to see this magnificent sight - if only from afar.

Educational Elephant Interaction - proves surprising and very emotional!

Jared writes: "Yesterday we encountered elephants from various distances on our game drive including 10 to 20 meters away, but today we took it to a whole new level!

I was completely wrong about my interpretation of 'elephant interaction', the weather wasn't that great so when little Jubliani (the baby elephant) appeared he put smiles across all our faces. The short talk about elephants turned out to be one of the most informative and enjoyable talks I’ve ever heard ... we’ve seen plenty of animals up close and personal but the elephant tops it all. Moments like placing food onto his tongue is one that is going to be with the group for a life time." 

Baby 'Jubliani' with his Mum 'Rachel' and Dad 'Rambo'

Jubliani with his Mum Rachel

Dad - Rambo - the elephant's eye is the logo for Bayete Zulu Elephant Interaction

Rambo's mouth - Cadets got to feed him & touch is skin, tusks and tongue

"South Africa is a place that never fails to surprise, the opportunity of a life time that will never come about again." - Jared

"50 elephant crossed in front of us - sheparding their young - awesome!"

Shock and Awe … in equal measure ... as the Cadets experience an exciting game drive in Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Reserve 

Tommy’s 5.30am wake-up and open-air safari drive in the cold African morning air proved to be a bit of a shock, and very chilly experience, for the Cadets.

With the words of their guide ringing in their ears saying that it was important to “go into the park “not expecting to see anything” so that they would appreciate all that they did see they took pleasure in sightings of Giraffe, Zebra, Warthogs, Wildebeest, Impala, and Nyala. There were lots of plants and birdlife for them too enjoy too … but sadly no big game after 3 hours of driving.

THEN … “we found ourselves gazing in awe as a herd of 50 elephant made their way past us, decimating the undergrowth as they went and all the while shepherding their young. Of all the breath-taking sights we saw, that was one of the most powerful and an experience never to be forgotten!” - Will

50 strong elephant herd which crossed in front of vehicle

An angry Mama ... Gemma and Magnus took up the story and told us of more sightings and excitement that followed as the Cadets saw a White Rhino and calf & got caught in the middle of a large herd of Buffalo (known as the ‘cantankerous old men’ of the Bush due to their grumpy nature!) – however, on this occasion they were in a good mood! The Cadets’ vehicle also had to beat a hasty retreat (see below) from the Matriach of the elephant herd who came trumpeting towards them, ears flapping.

"Get back" - Elephant warning!

  
Bush Camp & Wilderness Walking Trails

Cadets settled into the small camp which is surrounded by a single fence with ‘open-air’ toilet and shower warmed by paraffin and watch tower from which the Cadets took ‘lookout’ shifts throughout the night.

“The afternoon bush walk was taken by two new guides, Tommy took the afternoon off and cooked tea for us when we got back … Nothing like warm food after a long wet. muddy walk (the weather has unfortunately not been kind). The warm chicken stew [potjie - pronounced poy-key] made me feel like I was in France sitting in a gourmet restaurant. Hopefully the weather will be a lot drier tomorrow!” – Will.

The Cadets found the tracks of a black rhino and saw wildebeest, guineafowl , warthog, and impala.

Elephant Pudding … Half way though the walk we were all given a ‘nice’ taste challenge by Zee (one of the guides). He picked off and offered the leaves from a particular tree called ‘Elephant Pudding’. The leaves tasted salty bitter and sour. “Not the best thing I’ve ever had … and to be honest I think I’ll leave it all to the elephants” - Will

The whitefronted bee-eater